The impact of epidermal melanin on objective measurements of human skin colour

Abstract

Objective measurements of human skin colour were made with a tristimulus (L*a*b*) chromameter in a range of different ethnic skin types. These were compared with biochemical measurements of melanin content, melanin composition and melanosome size in skin biopsies obtained from the same sites. L*, a* and b* values were found to vary significantly with ethnicity. In general, constitutively dark skin types have lower L* values, higher a* values and higher b* values than constitutively light skin types. Total epidermal melanin content appears to be the primary determinant of L* values in human skin (r = -0.88; P < 0.00001), whilst melanosome size also has a significant but more subtle influence on L* values (r = -0.73; P < 0.00001). There is also a strong positive contribution to a* values from epidermal melanin (r = 0.66, P < 0.00001), which accounts for the ethnic variation in a* values observed in this study. Melanin is also a major contributor to b* values in lighter skin types (r = 0.71, P < 0.00001). However, this relationship breaks down in darker skin types where b* values actually reach a maximum and then decrease as the concentration of melanin in the skin increases. This appears to be because of optical masking of yellow light by high concentrations of melanin in the epidermis. Analysis of the relationships between L*, a* and b* values in human skin indicate that they are very closely interrelated, and suggest that the optical properties of melanin in the epidermis are very similar to those of a dye on a fabric substrate.