Oximetry fails to predict acute mountain sickness or summit success during a rapid ascent to 5640 meters

Abstract

Objective: The purpose of this study was to determine whether arterial oxygen saturation (Spo(2)) and heart rate (HR), as measured by a finger pulse oximeter on rapid arrival to 4260 m, could be predictive of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or summit success on a climb to 5640 m.

Methods: Climbers (35.0 ± 10.1 years; 51 men, 5 women) were transported from 2650 m to the Piedra Grande hut at 4260 m on Pico de Orizaba within 2 hours. After a median time of 10 hours at the hut, they climbed toward the summit (5640 m) and returned, with a median trip time of 14 hours. The Lake Louise Self-Assessment Scale (LLSS) for AMS, HR, and Spo(2) were collected on arrival at the hut and repeated immediately before and after the climbers' summit attempts.

Results: Average Spo(2) for all participants at 4260 m before their departure for the summit was 84.4% ± 3.7%. Thirty-seven of the 56 participants reached the summit, and 59% of all climbers met the criteria for AMS during the ascent. The Spo(2) was not significantly different between those who experienced AMS and those who did not (P = .82); neither was there a difference in Spo(2) between summiteers and nonsummiteers (P = .44). Climbers' HR just before the summit attempt was not related to AMS but was significantly lower for summiteers vs nonsummiteers (P = .04).

Conclusions: The Spo(2) does not appear to be predictive of AMS or summit success during rapid ascents.