Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review

Abstract

Facial rejuvenation can be categorized into skincare and facial contouring. Research and development of cosmeceuticals is aimed at addressing the major signs of photoaging: wrinkles, dyschromia, and sallowness. Assessment of photoaging comes in clinical and photographic forms; a photonumeric scale developed by Griffiths et al. has been assured of its validity and reliability for the assessment of severity of photoaging in qualitative studies. Treatment of photoaging comes in two categories: preventive and reversal of signs; whilst sunfactors are the most efficient and essential in preventing photodamage, research and development of cosmeceuticals for facial rejuvenation has been robust, thanks to several landmark studies in the last fifty years, funded by some of the forerunners in contemporary cosmetic industry. Stem cell research remains the current forerunner in research concerning cosmeceuticals. Nevertheless, high-quality, randomized control trials remain scarce within the contemporary literature, and more research and trials without funding by the industry are required to give rise to impartial comparisons between various cosmeceutical products. The "perfect cream" for facial rejuvenation remains elusive.

Keywords: alpha hydroxy acids; antioxidant; cosmeceutical; facial rejuvenation; photoaging of the skin; sunscreens.