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. 2021 Feb;20(2):513-521.
doi: 10.1111/jocd.13570. Epub 2020 Jul 24.

Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants

Mridvika Narda  1 , Carles Trullas  1 , Anthony Brown  2 , Jaime Piquero-Casals  3 , Corinne Granger  1 , Gabriella Fabbrocini  4
Affiliations

Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants

Mridvika Narda et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Feb.

Abstract

Background: Glycolic acid (GA) is an effective way of reversing the signs of age and photodamage. GA enhances desquamation of the stratum corneum and induces biological responses that can help restore skin's integrity. GA can, however, cause irritation, especially when its concentration is high, and its pH is low. Thus, most commercially available products for home use contain relatively low GA concentrations and are partially neutralized to a pH around 4.

Aims: The aim of this study was to determine the biological effects and relative efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing GA at concentrations ranging from 8% to 25% at pH 4 in human ex vivo skin explants.

Methods: Human skin explants were topically treated with gel formulations and oil-in-water creams containing 8%, 10%, 15%, or 25% GA, adjusted to pH 4, daily for 5 days. The degree of desquamation, their effect on cell proliferation, and their impact upon total collagen levels were determined 24 hours later. Levels of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) were measured after days 3 and 6.

Results: All formulations effectively induced desquamation in a concentration-dependent manner. Total collagen levels were increased at all concentrations, with greatest effects at higher GA concentrations. No effect on TNF-α expression was observed.

Conclusions: These data suggest that partially neutralized GA formulations retain skin rejuvenating properties without causing irritation and inflammation and that their use can be tailored to individual needs based on the concentration of GA in the formulation.

Keywords: cosmetics; glycolic acid; keratolytic agents; rejuvenation; skin aging.

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Conflict of interest statement

Mridvika Narda, Carles Trullas, and Corinne Granger are employees of ISDIN, the manufacturer of the formulations under study. Anthony Brown and Jaime Piquero‐Casals are paid consultants to ISDIN. Gabriela Fabbrocini has no conflict of interest to declare.

Figures

FIGURE 1
FIGURE 1
Effect on the stratum corneum. A, Thickness of the stratum corneum (SC) on day 6. Data show mean ± SEM of 27 images. B, Statistical comparisons between treatment groups; ***P < .01; *P < .05. C, Representative skin sections stained with Masson‐Goldner trichrome stain on day 6. D, Number of corneocyte layers on day 6. Data show mean ± SEM of 27 images. E, Statistical comparisons between treatment groups; ***P < .01; *P < .05; ‡ not significant. F, Representative skin sections following treatment with 0.4 N NaOH. G, Corneodesmosin (CDSN) expression levels on day 6. Data show mean ± SEM of 9 images per condition. H, Statistical comparisons between treatment groups; ***P < .01; *P < .05; ‡ not significant. I, Representative skin sections stained with a polyclonal anti‐CDSN antibody on day 6
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 2
Effect on keratinocyte proliferation, total collagen, and TNF‐α levels. A, Epidermal Proliferation Index on day 6. Data show mean ± SEM of 3 explants. B, Statistical comparisons between treatment groups; *P < .05; ‡ not significant. C, Representative skin sections stained for Ki‐67. D, Total collagen levels on day 6. Data show mean ± SEM of 9 images per condition. A trend line is shown. E, Statistical comparisons between treatment groups; ***P < .01; *P < .05; ‡ not significant. F, Representative skin sections stained with Sirius red on day 6. TNF‐α levels on day 3 (G) and day 6 (H). Data show mean ± SEM of 4 replicates per condition. All comparisons are not significant
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 3
Algorithm for the rational use of 8% to 25% glycolic acid (pH 4) in photodamaged skin
See this image and copyright information in PMC

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