Old Plant, New Possibilities: Wild Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L., Ericaceae) in Topical Skin Preparation

Abstract

Bilberry represents a valuable source of antioxidant substances responsible for its application for the treatment of different conditions (such as inflammation, cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, and different age-related diseases) associated with increased oxidative stress. As oxidative stress might cause skin impairments, we aim to evaluate a topical preparation containing bilberry leaves extract and bilberry seeds oil, obtained as a byproduct of the food industry. To obtain the extracts, the conventional maceration technique for leaves, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction for seeds were employed. The chemical profile of both actives was achieved by HPLC and GC methods, revealing the presence of phenolic acids (chlorogenic being the most abundant), flavonoids (isoquercetin in the highest amount), and resveratrol in leaves extract, while in seeds oil the essential ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids were determined in favorable ratio, almost being 1. Antioxidant potential of the wild bilberry extract and seed oil was evaluated using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays. Finally, effects of the oil-in-water creams with mentioned wild bilberry isolates on the skin were investigated in an in vivo study conducted on healthy human volunteers, revealing the significant beneficial effects when topically applied.

Keywords: Vaccinium myrtillus-bilberry; antioxidant activity; bilberry leaves extract; bilberry seed oil; in vivo skin performance; skin preparation.

Figure 1

HPLC chromatograms of investigated extract of wild bilberry leaves and phenolic compound identified at 325 nm.

Figure 2

In vivo determined absolute changes relative to basal values of electrical capacitance (EC) for investigated creams (active cream—WB, placebo cream—P) after 7, 14, 28 days of application and 2 days after cessation of application, compared to untreated control (C). Significant differences are being marked with # (p < 0.01) and * (p < 0.05).

Figure 3

In vivo determined absolute changes relative to basal values of TEWL for investigated creams (active cream—WB, placebo cream—P) after 7, 14, 28 days of application and 2 days after cessation of application, compared to untreated control (C). Significant differences are being marked with # (p < 0.01) and * (p < 0.05).

Figure 4

In vivo determined absolute changes relative to basal values of EI for investigated creams (active cream—WB, placebo cream—P) after 7, 14, 28 days of application and 2 days after cessation of application, compared to untreated control (C).

Figure 5

In vivo determined absolute changes relative to basal values of pH for investigated creams (active cream—WB, placebo cream—P) after 7, 14, 28 days of application and 2 days after cessation of application (blue, red, green and purple bar, respectively), compared to untreated control (C). Significant differences are being marked with # (p < 0.01) and * (p < 0.05).