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Review
. 2022 Dec;35(12):e15903.
doi: 10.1111/dth.15903. Epub 2022 Oct 21.

Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence

Bruna Bravo  1 , Priscila Correia  2 , José Euzébio Gonçalves Junior  2 , Beatriz Sant'Anna  2 , Delphine Kerob  3
Affiliations
Review

Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence

Bruna Bravo et al. Dermatol Ther. 2022 Dec.

Abstract

Skin aging goes beyond a chronological process and also results from extrinsic factors referred to as the exposome. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years old. While many studies of HA concern topical use, few literature reviews only address the use of topical HA in dermatology. This review describes the different characteristics of HA-containing cosmeceuticals, with a focus on skin aging and the impact of exposome factors on HA synthesis and degradation. A review was performed using the terms HA, hyaluronan, topical, dermatology, cosmetic, aging treatment, exposome, and cosmeceuticals. Results are also presented from a recent randomized controlled trial (RCT), which investigated the additional benefit of using a HA epidermic filler (HA-filler serum) combined with Botulinum toxin type A (BoNTA) to treat signs of skin aging. Subjects were randomized to two groups: HA-filler serum starting 24 h after the BoNTA injection then twice daily for 24 weeks, or the control group, which received BoNTA. HA is a key ingredient used in cosmeceuticals for its hydration/antiaging properties (hygroscopic, rheological, and viscoelastic). Several clinical studies indicate that HA is both well tolerated and effective, adjuvant to both post-surgical and facial rejuvenation procedures. In the RCT, one of few studies to combine BoNTA and HA with a 6-month follow-up, the HA-filler serum lengthened the duration of BoNTA's effect in reducing wrinkles. Numerous studies support HA-based cosmeceuticals as a noninvasive, effective solution for improving skin hydration and rejuvenation.

Keywords: cosmeceutical; dermatology; hyaluronic acid; skin; topical application.

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Conflict of interest statement

Dr. Bravo is a paid consultant for L'Oréal Brasil. Priscila Correia, José Euzébio Gonçalves Junior and Beatriz Sant'Anna are employees of L'Oréal Brazil, and Dr. Delphine Kerob is an employee of L'Oréal Paris, the manufacturer of the formulation under study.

Figures

FIGURE 1
FIGURE 1
Skin permeability of hyaluronic acid with various molecular weights. Printed from reference with permission from Elsevier
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 2
Skin functions affected by acute stressors. Skin functions affected by acute stressors: (1) skin physical barrier (stratum corneum), (2) melanocytes and interacting keratinocytes involved in skin pigmentation, (3) skin biochemical immune/cellular defenses, (4) skin structure including the extracellular matrix and adnexa, (5) skin neuroendocrine delivery, and (6) the thermoregulation function. Used under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution‐Non‐Commercial License from reference
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 3
Improved clinician‐assessed signs of facial aging with HA‐filler serum for (A) fine lines, (B) skin texture, (C) skin elasticity, (D) Crow's feet wrinkles, (E) deep wrinkles, (F) skin tone, and (G) radiance. p‐Values versus control (BoNTA): *p < 0.05; **p < 0.01; ***p < 0.001
See this image and copyright information in PMC

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