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Review
. 2022 Nov 20;27(22):8062.
doi: 10.3390/molecules27228062.

Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review

Hongyan Cui  1 , Wenjing Xie  1 , Zhongjie Hua  1 , Lihua Cao  1 , Ziyi Xiong  1 , Ying Tang  1 , Zhiqin Yuan  2
Affiliations
Review

Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review

Hongyan Cui et al. Molecules. .

Abstract

There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and "greener" hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community towards natural colorants that serve to replace their synthetic toxic counterparts. This review article encompasses the historical applications of a vast array of natural plant hair dyes and summarizes the possible coloration mechanisms (direct dyeing and mordant dyeing). Current information on phytochemicals (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) used for hair dyeing are summarized, including their botanical sources, color chemistry and biological/toxicological activities. A particular focus is given on research into new natural hair dye sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and applications, such as the synthetic biology approach for colorant production, encapsulation techniques for stabilization and the development of inorganic nanocarriers. In addition, innovative in vitro approaches for the toxicological assessments of natural hair dye cosmetics are highlighted.

Keywords: coloration mechanism; cosmetic safety; encapsulation; mordant; natural colorant; plant hair dye.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1
Possible interactions between hair fibers and lawsone (a); Possible interactions between hair fiber, polyphenol dye and mordanting iron (II) ions, where R=H, CH3, OH (b). Reprinted with permission from Ref. [36]. Copyright 2021, Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute.
Figure 2
Figure 2
Molecular structures of lawsone, juglone, shikonin, 1,4-benzoquinone, alizarin and the color changes at acid–base conditions.
Figure 3
Figure 3
Chemical structures of tannins (gallotannin, ellagic acid, gallic acid and catechin) with a proposed mordanting mechanism when complexed with iron (II) ions.
Figure 4
Figure 4
Chemical structures of flavonoids (anthocyanins, hematoxylin, quercetin and acacetin) and the effect of pH on anthocyanin structure and resultant color.
Figure 5
Figure 5
Molecular structures of indigo, indigo carmine and the pH effect on the soluble forms of indigos.
Figure 6
Figure 6
Molecular structures of the main types of curcuminoids.
Figure 7
Figure 7
Molecular structures of zeaxanthin, peridinin, and lutein.
See this image and copyright information in PMC

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