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. 2022 Dec 14;27(24):8877.
doi: 10.3390/molecules27248877.

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product

Martyna Zagórska-Dziok  1 , Magdalena Wójciak  2 , Aleksandra Ziemlewska  1 , Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska  1 , Uliana Hoian  1 , Katarzyna Klimczak  1 , Dariusz Szczepanek  3 , Ireneusz Sowa  2
Affiliations

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product

Martyna Zagórska-Dziok et al. Molecules. .

Abstract

Plant extracts have been widely used for skin care for many centuries, and nowadays, they are commonly applied for the development and enrichment of new cosmetic preparations. The present study aimed the assessment of the biological activity of aqueous Schisandra chinensis extracts as a potential ingredient of skin care products. The aspects studied involved the ability to neutralize free radicals, impact on viability and metabolism of keratinocytes, as well as tyrosinase inhibitory potential. Our study showed that aqueous S. chinensis extracts have a positive effect on keratinocyte growth and have high antioxidant potential and strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity. UPLC-MS analysis revealed that three groups of phenolic compounds were predominant in the analyzed extract, including lignans, phenolic acids and flavonoids and protocatechiuc and p-coumaryl quinic acids were predominant. Moreover, microwave-assisted extraction, followed by heat reflux extraction, was the most effective for extracting polyphenols. Furthermore, a prototypical natural body washes gel formulation containing the previously prepared extracts was developed. The irritation potential and viscosity were assessed for each of the formulations. The study demonstrated that the addition of these extracts to body wash gel formulations has a positive effect on their quality and may contribute to a decrease in skin irritation. In summary, S. chinensis aqueous extracts can be seen as an innovative ingredient useful in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

Keywords: Schisandra chinensis; antioxidant activity; cosmetic safety; irritation potential; tyrosinase inhibitor.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1
Total phenolic content (a) and total flavonoid content (b) in four types of aqueous extracts (UAE-ultrasound-assisted extraction; MAE–microwave-assisted extraction; ME–maceration with continuous stirring; HAE–heat-assisted extraction) of Schisandra chinensis fruits. Values are the mean of six replicate determinations (n = 6) ± SD.
Figure 2
Figure 2
Antioxidant properties of Schisandra chinensis aqueous extract against DPPH free radical solutions. MAE–microwave-assisted extraction; UAE-ultrasound-assisted extraction; ME–maceration with continuous stirring; HAE–heat-assisted extraction. The concentration range of extracts is from 6.25 to 200 µg/mL. Values are the mean of three replicate determinations (n = 3).
Figure 3
Figure 3
Antioxidant properties of Schisandra chinensis aqueous extract against ABTS solutions. UAE-ultrasound-assisted extraction; MAE–microwave-assisted extraction; ME–maceration with continuous stirring; HAE–heat-assisted extraction. The concentration range of extracts is from 6.25 to 200 µg/mL. Values are the mean of three replicate determinations (n = 3).
Figure 4
Figure 4
The effect of increasing concentrations of aqueous MAE Schisandra chinensis extracts (6.75, 12.5, 25, 50, 100, 200 µg/mL) on Neutral Red Dye uptake in cultured keratinocytes after 24 h of exposure. Data are the mean ± SD of three independent experiments, each of which consists of three replicates per treatment group. *** p < 0.001 versus the control (100%).
Figure 5
Figure 5
The reduction of resazurin after 24 h exposure to the aqueous MAE Schisandra chinensis extracts (6.75, 12.5, 25, 50, 100, 200 µg/mL) in cultured keratinocytes. Data are the mean ± SD of three independent experiments, each of which consists of three replicates per treatment group. ** p < 0.01, *** p < 0.001, **** p < 0.0001 versus the control (100%).
Figure 6
Figure 6
Inhibition of tyrosinase by four types of Schisandra chinensis fruits aqueous extracts (UAE-ultrasound-assisted extraction; MAE–microwave-assisted extraction; ME–maceration with continuous stirring; HAE–heat-assisted extraction). The concentration of the tested extracts was 50 µg/mL. Values are the mean of four replicate determinations (n = 4) ± SD. **** p < 0.0001 versus the control.
Figure 7
Figure 7
Zein value of model body wash gels containing water S. chinensis extracts. Four types of aqueous extract (UAE-ultrasound-assisted extraction (Gel 1); MAE–microwave-assisted extraction (Gel 2); ME–maceration with continuous stirring (Gel 3); HAE–heat-assisted extraction (Gel4)) are used. Model wash gels contain 3% (w/w) of appropriate extracts. The final values are the arithmetic mean of five independent measurements.
Figure 8
Figure 8
The viscosity of tested wash gel formulations containing aqueous Schisandra chinensis extracts was measured using a rheometer. Four types of aqueous extract (UAE-ultrasound-assisted extraction (Gel 1); MAE–microwave-assisted extraction (Gel 2); ME–maceration with continuous stirring (Gel 3); HAE–heat-assisted extraction (Gel4)) of Schisandra chinensis fruits are used. Values are the mean of six replicate determinations (n = 6).
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