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. 2023 Apr 10;24(8):7004.
doi: 10.3390/ijms24087004.

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

Ana Simona Barna  1 , Claudia Maxim  1 , Adriana Trifan  2 , Alexandra Cristina Blaga  1 , Ramona Cimpoesu  3 , Delia Turcov  1 , Daniela Suteu  1
Affiliations

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

Ana Simona Barna et al. Int J Mol Sci. .

Abstract

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

Keywords: bakuchiol; emulsions; oxidative stress; signal peptides; skin protection.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1
pH (a) and conductivity (b) of the studied emulsions.
Figure 2
Figure 2
Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of the emulsion E.1.0. (a) and emulsion E.1.3. (b).
Figure 3
Figure 3
Energy-dispersive X ray (EDX) spectra of the of the emulsion E.1.0.—without active (a) and emulsion E.1.3.—with active (b).
Figure 4
Figure 4
The amount of polyphenols (TPC) released in the receptor compartment (5 mL) by the E 1.3. emulsion: TPC μg/5 mL (blue line) and the rate of release of polyphenols, expressed in TPC μg/mL/t (black line), depending on time.
Figure 5
Figure 5
Efficiency of permeation of polyphenols from E 1.3. emulsion through chicken skin.
Figure 6
Figure 6
Chemical structure of bakuchiol.
See this image and copyright information in PMC

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