Per- and polyfluoroalkyls used as cosmetic ingredients - Qualitative study of 765 cosmetic products

Abstract

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) form a vast family comprising more than 4700 synthetic compounds. Their molecules contain a terminal functional group and a hydrophobic carbon tail (alkyl group) at which the hydrogen atoms are totally (in the case of perfluorinated compounds) or partially (in the case of polyfluorinated compounds) replaced by fluorine atoms. Due to the very specific properties of their structure, they have been used in a vast range of applications over the last 70 years. These substances are considered to be of concern for the environment. Their effects on human health are still poorly understood because studies are still too rare, but the cutaneous route could be a significant pathway of penetration. In this context, we made a qualitative study to assess the presence of PFAS in various cosmetics such as hygiene products, skin care products, make-up and perfumes. Among the 765 products studied, we found 11 different PFAS. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and perfluorodecalin, present in 25.9% and 22.2% of products containing it, respectively, were the most frequent. Although the presence of this type of ingredient seems to be limited in Europe, make-up appears to be the type of product most likely to contain PFAS.

Keywords: Cosmetic products; Make-up; PFAS; PTFE; Perfluorodecalin.