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Review
. 2025 May;39(5):952-966.
doi: 10.1111/jdv.20145. Epub 2024 Jun 15.

International expert consensus recommendations for the use of dermocosmetics in acne

Diane Thiboutot  1 , Alison M Layton  2 , Ibrahima Traore  3 , Gabriel Gontijo  4 , Patricia Troielli  5 , Qiang Ju  6 , Ichiro Kurokawa  7 , Brigitte Dreno  8
Affiliations
Review

International expert consensus recommendations for the use of dermocosmetics in acne

Diane Thiboutot et al. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2025 May.

Abstract

Background: A wide variety of dermocosmetics (products with both active skincare and cosmetic activity) are available for the management of acne vulgaris. These products are important because they may be the first line of approach for patients desiring to self-treat and they can also have beneficial effects-reducing lesion counts and improving global acne severity. When used in conjunction with medical therapy, dermocosmetics can improve tolerability and enhance results. We reviewed available evidence and combined it with our clinical experience to help guide clinicians in selecting skincare products with acne-targeting ingredients.

Methods: An international panel of dermatologists with an interest and expertise in managing acne performed a literature review, formulated clinical questions related to the role of dermocosmetics in the acne setting, used a modified GRADE approach to evaluate available evidence and then utilized an online iterative Delphi process to create consensus recommendations. It should be noted that due to the limited number of available studies, the category of dermocosmetics was evaluated rather than specific ingredients.

Results: The quality of evidence was found to be low to moderate. Key recommendations were made based on available evidence for the use of dermocosmetics in acne to improve acne global assessment, reduce acne lesion counts, reduce superficial skin oiliness and serve as maintenance therapy after medical treatment, while providing a good tolerability. Recommendations were also made for using dermocosmetics as adjuncts to medical treatment.

Conclusions: While there is a need for better quality evidence, dermocosmetics have demonstrated some benefit for acne both when used alone in its milder clinical presentations or in maintenance post acne medication and as adjunct to acne treatments.

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Conflict of interest statement

Prof Thiboutot has served as advisor/consultant for La Roche‐Posay, Biofrontera and Novartis; Prof Layton has served as advisor, consultant and/or investigator for research (funded to institution) for Galderma, Glaxo Smith Kline and Origimm and has received honoraria for unrestricted educational events from Almirall, Beiersdorf, Galderma, La Roche‐Posay, Leo Pharma, L'Oreal, Mylan, Novartis, Origimm and Proctor & Gamble, Sanofi; Dr Traore and Dr Kurokawa have no conflicts of interest to report; Dr Gontijo has served as a consultant to La Roche Posay; Dr Troielli has served as a consultant/received honoraria from Beiersdorf, Galderma, La Roche Posay and L'Oreal; Dr Ju has nothing to declare; Pr Dreno has served as consultant/received honoraria from Bristol Meyers Squibb, Almirall, Galderma, La Roche Posay, Pierre Fabre and Bioderma.

Figures

FIGURE 1
FIGURE 1
Active ingredients for acne in dermocosmetics and their intended targets. Alpha‐hydroxy acid, linoleic acid, salix alba, decanediol, lactobacillus, EGCG, Vitroscella filiformis (APF), lactobacillus plantaris, piroctone olamine and shea butter are included as well as ingredients with moisturizing properties that may add benefit for acne patients. In addition, some of these terms were identified independently of the searched terms (e.g. those were mentioned as ingredients along with searched terms). *Additional/secondary action. **Fermented. AMP, antimicrobial peptides; APF, aqua posae filiformis; BPO, benzoyl peroxide; EGCG, epigallocatechin‐3‐gallate.
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 2
Algorithm for use of dermocosmetics in acne management. Figure is descriptive to highlight the action of ingredients found in dermocosmetics. BPO is a cosmetic/over‐the‐counter product in most countries.
See this image and copyright information in PMC

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