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Review
. 2025 Jan;24(1):e16654.
doi: 10.1111/jocd.16654. Epub 2024 Oct 29.

Effects of Thioglycolate Compounds in an Emerging Technique in the World of Cosmetics-Brow Lamination

Laura Ghanem  1 , Stephani Chagoury  2 , Andrea Issa  2 , Kaline Maya Khoury  2 , Kelly Katherine Karam  2 , Milissa Makhlouf  2
Affiliations
Review

Effects of Thioglycolate Compounds in an Emerging Technique in the World of Cosmetics-Brow Lamination

Laura Ghanem et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Jan.

Abstract

Background: The side effects of two related chemicals, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) and thioglycolic acid (TGA) have been widely highlighted in the world of cosmetics. These thioglycolate compounds are considered essential ingredients in a new technique known as brow lamination. This technique is widely used nowadays, with the aim of changing the eyebrow shape.

Aims: To our knowledge, this is the first study to address the possible side effects of brow lamination.

Results: The hydrophilic characteristic of ATG and TGA reflects their transdermal absorption through the intracellular and transappendageal pathways. These compounds can affect the skin through allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), characterized by skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. Moreover, these thioglycolates can alter several mechanical and chemical reactions in the eyebrows' hair, therefore affecting their shape, structure, and pigmentation. In addition, these chemicals contained in brow lamination can exert systemic manifestations, at the level of the reproductive, ocular, respiratory, and endocrine systems.

Conclusion: More studies should be elaborated to shed light on the possible side effects of this trend. Additionally, further regulations should be taken into consideration to ensure the concentration and the measures applied are convenient to minimize these side effects.

Keywords: ammonium thioglycolate; brow lamination; chemicals; eyebrows; skin irritation; thioglycolic acid.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

Figures

FIGURE 1
FIGURE 1
The absorption of thioglycolate compounds with their subsequent effect at the level of the skin.
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 2
The steps involved in the brow lamination technique.
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 3
The effect of thioglycolate compounds on the different organ systems.
See this image and copyright information in PMC

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