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. 2024 Nov 19;10(1):125.
doi: 10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7.

Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers

Natalie K Gilmore  1 , Peter Klimek  2 , Emil Abrahamsson  3 , Keith Baar  4   5   6
Affiliations

Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers

Natalie K Gilmore et al. Sports Med Open. .

Abstract

Background: Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol ("Abrahangs"), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength.

Methods: We retrospectively evaluated the change in grip strength and Strength: Weight following Max Hangs, Abrahangs, or the two protocols performed concurrently in rock climbers who used the Crimpd app to log their training. Users who had completed two finger strength tests within a 4-16-week period were included. Climbers were grouped by the number of training sessions into: "Climbing Only", "Abrahangs Only", "Max Hangs Only" and "Both" Max Hangs and Abrahangs.

Results: Frequent low intensity finger loading was as effective at improving grip strength in climbers as training with maximal loads. Additionally, combining low intensity and maximal load training resulted in additive strength gains.

Conclusions: These results suggest that low-intensity long duration holds provide a promising training paradigm for training finger strength that is gentle enough to incorporate into existing training programs.

Keywords: Exercise; Force transfer; Neurological strength; Rock climbing; Training.

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Conflict of interest statement

Declarations Ethics Approval and Consent to Participate All Crimpd users provided consent to use their data retrospectively. The Medical Ethics Committee at Maastricht University confirmed “that the Medical Research Involving Human Subjects Act (WMO) does not apply to the study and an official approval of this study is not required.” This decision reflected the fact that the participants had consented to data use and no identifiable health information was used. Consent for Publication All authors approved the final version. Competing Interests The funder had no role in the design or testing of the hypothesis. EA is the creator of the Abrahangs protocol and PK is designer of the Crimpd App.

Figures

Fig. 1
Fig. 1
Demonstration Abrahangs and Max Hangs. These exercises can be performed on an 18–22 mm edge of a hangboard. A) A dead hang with added weight representative of the Max Hangs and Finger Strength Test (1RM) protocol and B) An isometric hang performed with feet on the ground representative of the Abrahangs protocol
Fig. 2
Fig. 2
Data mining scheme used to mine users of the Crimpd app for inclusion in the study and grouping
Fig. 3
Fig. 3
Effect of Climbing Only, Abrahangs Only (AbraH), Max Hangs Only (MaxH), and both Abrahangs and Max Hangs (“Both”) on (A) strength to weight ratio and (B) the change in strength to weight ratio. Note that all three training groups increased strength to weight ratio from the start to end of the training period, whereas those who only climbed did not increase strength. Overall, there was no difference between the training groups. However, when the change in strength was calculated, the “Both” group increased strength more than either of the groups who performed only one type of training. In panel B, the median (M) Δ Strength: Weight is reported for all groups
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