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. 2025 Mar 23;30(7):1423.
doi: 10.3390/molecules30071423.

Phenolics as Active Ingredients in Skincare Products: A Myth or Reality?

Ana Jesus  1   2 , Smeera Ratanji  1   2 , Honorina Cidade  3   4   5 , Emília Sousa  3   4 , Maria T Cruz  6   7 , Rita Oliveira  1   2   8   9 , Isabel F Almeida  1   2
Affiliations

Phenolics as Active Ingredients in Skincare Products: A Myth or Reality?

Ana Jesus et al. Molecules. .

Abstract

Phenolic compounds, with their diverse biological activities, are widely explored as cosmetic ingredients with photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hyperpigmentation properties, offering a multitargeted approach to combat photo-induced skin aging. The study analyzed 1299 cosmetic products from 2021 to 2024 to understand the market impact of phenolic compounds and their mechanism of action against photo-induced skin damage. A total of 28 active phenolic compounds were identified and the prevalence of phenolics was 13.2% in anti-aging products, 5.2% in sunscreens and 4.8% in aftersun products. Bakuchiol and polyphenols, such as resveratrol, chrysin, and hesperidin methyl chalcone, were found in anti-aging products. Sunscreens and aftersun products were counted with ferulic and caffeic acids, and salicylic acid, respectively. Antioxidant activity was found to be the primary mechanism of action of phenolic compounds by scavenging reactive species, thus mitigating oxidative stress. Ferulic and caffeic acids, chrysin, and glucosylrutin can also absorb UV radiation, acting preventively against solar-induced skin damage. This study provides insights into the limited use of phenolic compounds in commercial cosmetics, despite their diverse biological activities, and suggests potential barriers to wider use in skin and sun care products.

Keywords: anti-aging cosmetic products; mechanism of action; phenolic compounds; skin aging; suncare cosmetic products.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1
Analysis of the presence of phenolic ingredients in each category of products, according to their chemical classification and source. Semi-synt./synt.: semi-synthetic/synthetic compounds, w/: with, w/out: without.
Figure 2
Figure 2
Phenolic compounds found in anti-aging products marketed in 2024.
Figure 3
Figure 3
Usage frequency of phenolic compounds found in sunscreen products marketed in 2021.
Figure 4
Figure 4
Usage frequency of phenolic compounds found in aftersun products marketed in 2023 and 2024.
Figure 5
Figure 5
Chemical structure of hydroxyacetophenone.
Figure 6
Figure 6
Chemical structure of bakuchiol.
Figure 7
Figure 7
Chemical structure of salicylic acid and capryloyl salicylic acid.
Figure 8
Figure 8
Chemical structure of ferulic and caffeic acids.
Figure 9
Figure 9
Chemical structure of phenylethyl resorcinol.
Figure 10
Figure 10
Chemical structure of hesperidin methyl chalcone.
Figure 11
Figure 11
Chemical structure of chrysin.
Figure 12
Figure 12
Chemical structure of resveratrol and resveratrol dimethyl ether.
Figure 13
Figure 13
Chemical structure of rutin and glucosylrutin.
Figure 14
Figure 14
Chemical structure of quercetin, quercitrin, and isoquercitrin.
Figure 15
Figure 15
Most used phenolic compounds and their advantages and disadvantages when applied in cosmetic products.
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