Xenon Inhalation for Expeditions to High Altitude: A Position Statement from the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, UIAA) Medical Commission

Abstract

Hilty, Matthias P, Urs Hefti, Pierre Bouzat, Hannes Gatterer, Lenka Horakova, Linda E Keyes, Justin Lawley, Benjamin D Levine, George Rodway, Daniel Trevena, Eduardo Vinhaes, and Benoit Champigneulle. Xenon Inhalation for Expeditions to High Altitude: A Position Statement from the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, UIAA) Medical Commission. High Alt Med Biol. 00:00-00, 2025. Background and Methods: Recently, xenon inhalation has been advertised for use as a pre-acclimatization method for high-altitude climbs, but this use is controversial and not without risks. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, UIAA) Medical Commission convened a panel, including external experts, to develop a position statement on xenon inhalation as a pre-acclimatization method. Results: In this statement, we summarize the current state of research and discuss possible directions of future investigations. A pre-acclimatization strategy using xenon inhalation includes risks of respiratory depression, hypoxemia, systemic hypertension, and neurological impairment. The potential benefits of xenon inhalation, such as erythropoiesis, an increase in hemoglobin mass, or increased oxygen availability to the tissues, are not supported by the existing, current evidence. Conclusion: The UIAA Medical Commission recommends against the use of xenon inhalation in preparation for or during expeditions to high altitude unless part of a controlled study with appropriately qualified medical support such as anesthesia personnel.

Keywords: acclimatization; erythropoietin; high altitude; hypoxia; tissue oxygenation; tissue perfusion.