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. 2025 Aug 9.
doi: 10.1007/s13346-025-01939-0. Online ahead of print.

Mechanistic insights and clinical evidence of Helianthus annuus Linn. (Sunflower) seed oil for dermatological applications: A narrative review

Heng Chee Lim  1 , Sue Kei Lee  1 , Jing Wen Keng  1 , Ee Qian Lee  1 , Eugenie Sin Sing Tan  2 , Kai Bin Liew  3 , Chun Wai Mai  4 , Siew Keah Lee  5 , Li Chen  6 , May Lee Low  1 , Yik Ling Chew  7
Affiliations

Mechanistic insights and clinical evidence of Helianthus annuus Linn. (Sunflower) seed oil for dermatological applications: A narrative review

Heng Chee Lim et al. Drug Deliv Transl Res. .

Abstract

Plant oils play an important role in natural product-based dermatological formulations owing to their multifunctional therapeutic properties. Among these, sunflower seed oil (SSO) has gained prominence due to its dual role as a barrier-restoring emollient and skin penetration enhancer. Rich in unsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (LA) and oleic acid (OA), SSO supports skin health by restoring lipid bilayer organization, modulating ceramide synthesis, and activating peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha (PPAR-α). These mechanisms reinforce barrier integrity while facilitating transdermal delivery of active agents. However, oils high in OA and/or containing protein allergens may compromise barrier function and promote allergen penetration, necessitating careful evaluation of chemical composition and structural characteristics. Ex vivo studies using porcine skin models have demonstrated SSO ability to enhance the permeation of both hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds. Clinically, SSO has shown efficacy in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), improving hydration, and accelerating wound healing in conditions such as xerosis and atopic dermatitis. Its favourable safety profile, biocompatibility, and successful incorporation into various dermatological and cosmeceutical formulations underscore its versatility. This review critically examines the molecular interactions between SSO and the skin barrier, with specific focus on its roles in barrier restoration, inflammation modulation and transdermal enhancement. Mechanistic insights from its fatty acid composition are integrated with ex vivo findings, supported by clinical evidence, to evaluate its therapeutic potential and utility as a multifunctional, plant-based excipient in modern topical drug delivery systems for human skin health.

Keywords: Dermatological treatment; Emollient; Health; Human; Penetration enhancer; Sunflower seed oil.

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Conflict of interest statement

Declarations. Ethics approval and consent to participate: There is no ethics approval required. Consent for publication: All authors have approved the content of this manuscript and have given full consent to submit this manuscript for publication. Competing interests: The authors have no relevant affiliations or financial involvement with any organisation or entity with a financial interest in or financial conflict with the subject matter or materials discussed in the manuscript. This includes employment, consultancies, honoraria, stock ownership or options, expert testimony, grants or patents received or pending, or royalties.

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